Gallery

Drone pic of Shady Grove

Cat on Yin and Yang Shady grove

Cat on Yin and Yang

Drone pic of Swallow cave

Rachel on the Beast

Rachel at the Gash

Ladies at Xi Shan

Karlyn on the Beast

Karlyn on Prison dick

Ben at XM cave

The weeping wall Fumin

Old red rock (top) Fumin

Peter on Beast of the Deep

Babysitting at Swallow cave

Swallow cave

Baby Nacho chilling out

Cave climbing at Swallow cave

Mark night climbing in Fumin

Night climbing at Fumin

Peter at the Wind Tunnel

Corlie on the Return of the Limpit

Ryan at TNT wall

Ryan at TNT wall

Yang Bin in Shigu

Clara on The Cleaner

Xiao Mo Yu cave

Corlie Peter and little Jonah at Sw cave

Honey and Pregnancy walls

A Fei on The Beast

Traffic….

Peter bolting Sw cave

Peter bolting Sw cave

Peter bolting Sw cave

Ahmed at Swallow cave

Swallow cave from the road

Marta on the Cleaner

Spectators

Tom bolting with the willy stick

Colin at XM cave

Climbers at Fumin

Aling and Dan

Carrying kids to the Gash

Kids and dogs having fun at Sw cave

Alberto at Fumin

Peter at Fumin

Tom on Funny looking white guy

Dan roping up

Jian jian at the Weeping wall

Climbers in Fumin

Karen at Fumin

Hannah at Fumin

 

 

 

 

 


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Riding the willy stick

Published 2014

About a year ago I was referred by a close friend to a certain page on climbingtrash.com detailing the uses and abuses of a willy stick, and a ridiculous idea was born, to copy what we had seen on the page and try it out for ourselves. Jim and Peter brought some decent size bamboo back from a secret location, and me and Peter started kitting it out with slings, and a rubber foot to prevent the dreaded windscreen wiper.
After the initial excitement, and taking the willy stick all over Kunming and the surrounding villages to try it out, it got neglected and abandoned and the rubber foot got stolen. Then one day it was unexpectedly brought out of the damp corner it had rolled into…

The Willy Stick is a simple method of bolting on lead, without having to climb the route while you bolt, or use hooks, however in my experience a combination of techniques was necessary. In the examples given on the website, the rock was at a slightly different angle to what we ended up experimenting on and so I ended up sat on top of the stick, wedged into the roof, shuffling out and slithering about in a general tangle of ropes and bolting gear and sweat, much to peter’s amusement and corlie’s apparent concern.

I couldn’t complain, I had forgotten half my stuff, and still wanted to bolt, and even offered to use the stick. When the going gets tough, bust out the willy stick.

I managed to place two bolts in this way, in about an hour, or more. It felt eternal – time crystallizing into a moment of infinity each time the stick creaked or the rock it was sitting on crumbled. All I know is that the willy stick will be back, soon, and hopefully I will be on belay next time.

– Tom Wright

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Directions to Xi Shan

Would be easiest to check the Kunming climbing guidebook released by Red Point Gym (Click on their logo to the left when on our main page for a link to their site) for directions.


Posted in Directions to the crags, Xi Shan area and tagged , , by with no comments yet.