Falling fridges at TNT wall is closed

Falling fridges at the TNT wall is closed because it is unsafe to climb. There is a gigantic flake on the route (marked with a white skull and crossbones) that is loose. The flake needs to be removed and the route rebolted before it is climbable again. We have tried removing this flake using two people with crowbars to pull it off but so far it has not budged. Rather play it safe and stay off this route!

If this flake comes off it will kill both you and your belayer should you not heed this warning!!

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Directions to Da Mo Yu/The Wind tunnel

We say Da Mo Yu, as this is the nearest village, but the climbing (Wind Tunnel and related bouldering) is actually a little way from the village itself. To get there, take the same bus as for Xiao Mo Yu (bus C61), but you don’t get off at the drop off point for Xiao Mo Yu, stay on the bus for maybe another 1 or 2 km. After the Xiao Mo Yu drop off, the road bends left and then right, and goes down a long hill. Climb off at the bottom of the hill, as the road levels off. As usual, the bus driver will be confused as to why a foreigner would be climbing out here, just stand up, shout, take off your clothes, whatever is needed to get him to stop. Then, once you have put your clothes back on, cross the road and head back up the hill for a short distance, to the first road on the right hand side, this is a dusty dirt road accessing a nearby quarry (i.e.: many trucks). Follow this road for about 1km (less?), going under the new superhighway and head up a short dirty hill. At this point you should see the crag up and left, above a small forested area. The topos section should provide a clear picture of the crag and bouldering areas. As you near the top of the dirty hill, you’ll see a small road on your left, turn in here. There are a couple of paths heading up through the forest to the crag/bouldering, maybe a little overgrown, but it’s a short walk, so shouldn’t be a problem accessing the climbing.

Sadly one of our pads was stolen from the bouldering wall, so now we make a good job of hiding the remaining pad in the bushes near the bouldering. If you find it, please make sure to put it back.

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Directions to Swallow cave

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Directions to Fu Min 富民 canyon

Fumin Canyon is a little further away from Kunming than the XiaoMoyu area, however with close to one hundred climbs ranging from 5c to 8a, and a number of undocumented new multi pitch routes, as well as a few decent camping spots it is definitely worth visiting.

The first part of the journey is to the northwest bus station 西北部车站 which can  be reached either on the number one bus or by taxi. Here you must buy a ticket (from the left hand booths) to FuMin 富民 . You will find the bus at the far left hand side of the platform, and it will leave when it is full. The buses also act as a delivery service to the villages, so don’t be surprised if you pull in and somebody fills the aisle with sacks of corn. The journey is not unpleasant (except for the tunnel) and will drop you off at the bus station in FuMin. Turn right out of the bus station and carry on until you cross the river, the next turning on your left will take you to the climbing. The road here continues for about 4km before arriving at a bridge, and the climbing areas. You can take either a cheap seat on one of the knackered looking donkey carts, or a slightly quicker ride in one of the 面包车 minibuses for about 5 kuai.

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