Pregnancy and Honey wall topos (Xiao Mo Yu area)

For directions on how to get to the Pregnancy wall and Honey wall crags, please see the directions for how to get to Xiao Mo Yu village, and then take these directions from there.

Pregnancy and honey wall topo, Kunmingrock


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Xiao Mo Yu cave and Fumin canyon topos

The topos for these areas are available from the local Chinese developers who run a climbing gym and website called Red Point.

You can contact them here to buy a guide book.

Else, you could go with someone who knows the area and the routes in the Xiao mo yu cave, nearby cornfield as well as the Fumin canyon area.

(the topos are also available in the newly published Climb China guidebook)


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Swallow cave topos

Swallow cave is fast proving to be the home of hard climbing in Kunming. Routes are still being bolted and plenty of projects are scattered about. These routes will surely all prove to be classics, they are long, steep and unforgiving, the perfect combination for a hard climb! That said, there are also a number of climbs in the lower grades, so there is fun to be had by all. The lower red wall is also being developed, this provides some amazing face climbing. Below the red face, the boulders are waiting to be climbed….

This crag is very difficult to photograph properly, so the tops might not do justice to the length or steepness of the climbs.

Swallow cave – The Pit

Swallow cave The Pit topo

Swallow cave – Batty area

Swallow cave - Batty area topo

Swallow cave – Hot spot area

Swallow cave - hot spot topo

 


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The Wind tunnel topo

The Wind tunnel, found near the village of Damoyu, is a great area, combining crimpy sport climbing with a couple of bouldering sectors below the crag. Easy access, year round climbing and the prospect of bouldering make this a good way to spend your day.

Topo for the Wind tunnel and the related bouldering areas (Storm surge and XXX walls)

Topo for the Wind tunnel and the related bouldering areas (Storm surge and XXX walls)


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The Gash topos

The Gash is a new crag with loads of potential. The Scorched earth wall is the best developed area, with some really cool face climbing and a few open projects for those with strong crimping fingers. Recently Fool’s errand was opened at the Library wall, going at about 6c/+, I reckon this to be one of the finest routes of that grade in Kunming. Then there are a couple of 40m climbs out right,at the Infinity wall, going at about 7a and 7a.? These are well worth climbing, they just get more and more fun the higher you go.

This crag has morning shade, great camping and usually catches a cool breeze, allowing you to climb into the afternoon sun without too many problems. A mix of technical, crimpy climbing with some pumpy sections in between. No fires in the dry season, no matter how tempting! There are very strict laws prohibiting this, including some jail time…. As always, please be aware of loose rock when climbing.

The Gash - All sectors

Topo showing all sectors of The Gash

The Gash - Scorched earth wall second edition

The Gash – Scorched earth wall

 

Library Wall topi for the Gash

Library Wall topo for the Gash

The Gash - Infinity wall topo

The Gash – Infinity wall topo


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TNT Wall topo

This is the topo for the TNT wall in Xiao Mo Yu area.  Please Note that Flying Fridges is currently closed due to a large flake needing removal, if this flake should come off it would be disastrous for both belayer and climber.

TNT Wall Topo


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